After siesta we went back up the road to the grotto where we joined in the service, then went across to the basilica only to find that the evening service was back at the grotto and the next service here was next day. Looking round for a drink we realised that nothing was open and the only drinks available were cans from machines. It doesn't seem very pilgrim or tourist friendly. However we found the time for the museum and planned to return to see the museum before the service. Going back down the road we bought some coca cola from a machine and went to our room to eat our supper using our emergency rations (saved from our generous lunch) for tea. The rain was fairly heavy so we didn't venture out again.
15th May
Returning, by road, to the grotto we found that the trickle of water was now a roaring waterfall. The steps up to the chapel are called the Steps of Penitence, then through the tunnel carved in the rock to the square and the museum. Here we finally obtained a sello for Covadonga itself, and later found it is the official one for the end of the pilgrimage. The museum is very interesting and we came out with just enough time for a drink in the cafe (now open) of the Parador. Then it was time to go the the mid-day service in the Basilica, except that there was no sign of anything happening. Then at about 11.59 a few more people came and 3 nuns from the convent, which stll cares for the grotto. It was a very quiet reflective service after which we had a little more time to take photos before going back to the grotto to see Pelayo's grave which we missed earlier (no photos allowed).
Back down at El Repelao for lunch and later for drinks we learnt that the Hotel Repelao was on the site of the old pilgrims' hospital and itself had been part of the railway buildings. The Tourist Information opposite (closed) had been the station itself, at the end of the line. We took our hosts advice and bought a chicken bocadillo for our supper. Fortunately we did only buy one as it was huge; fresh cooked breaded chicken with salad in a half a loaf of bread and foil wrapped to keep it hot. We took it back to Casa Asprón to eat before packing up ready to return, by bus tomorrow, to Cangas de Onis and the Aguila Réal.
The Basilica of Santa Maria la Real
de Covadonga
The grotto and chapel
The waterfall - 14th May
and
after the rain - 15th May
The basilica from the bottom of the hill
The convent and grotto from the top of the hill near the basilica
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