San Vicente to Unquera:- 6th May

15kms from the hotel to Pesues
After a good breakfast, and collecting 2 pinchos of bread and chorizo for a mid-morning snack, we set off to retrace our steps to the end of the bridge. This took us back past the Sanctuario de Barquera, the fishermen's chapel, and past the fishing port and market. Then along past the yachts and restaurants to the roundabout

. The Camino goes uphill from the bridge and there are good views back to the church of San Vicente. It was very humid all the way to La Acebosa, partly on traks and partly on the road.

Beyond La Acebosa the route to Santo Toribio de Liebana turns towards the Picos de Europa at Hortigal and the Camino del Norte continues towards Estrada. We stopped briefly at La Torre Estrada to eat our pinchos. The ancient tower is under scaffolding and being restored. Walking on we stopped in Serdio for coca cola and to buy more water, then continued along the roads to Pesues where we stopped for lunch at 13.30.

The extra 1.5kms needed to return from the hotel to the camino would have made walking to Unquera a longer day than we wanted. It was nearly 15.00 when we finished lunch, so we completed the journey to the Rio Deva ll, at Unquera, by taxi. A very comfortable stop just out of the town but there is a confiteria just down the slope and a big supermarket just up from the hostal. We went to the former for a drink, but not into the supermarket. The Rio Deva ll also has a good cafe where we bought tortilla bocadillos for supper.

Sanctuario de Barquera

Looking back to the church at San Vicente

Countryside and

La Torre Estrada

The Camino follows the country road beyond Estrada and into Pesues

Comillas to San Vicente: 5th May

13.5kms
A warm and sunny start, we actually had our fleeces off and in our packs before we left Comillas. There was a bike race/rally due to start, cyclists were arriving in the town square and then warming up along the road out of town.

In spite of what the guide books say there is no bar along this section of the route and we didn't find a pilgrim friendly bar in El Teju. However we always make sure that we have something for such occasions and plenty of water. The views of the snow on the mountains changed as the sun moved round so we took several photos as we walked, as well as views of the sea and the Camino itself.

Reaching San Vicente across the bridge we went for a menu del dia near the main harbour. Then we had to find our hotel, which we discovered had changed its name some time ago from the 'Hotel Barquera' to the 'Miramar'. It is right out on the point (1.5kms from the bridge and Camino) and was one we had stayed in previously with Brittany Ferries. Our room was lovely and on a corner with great views from the double balcony. We hung our washing to dry and later ate our bread and cheese there.

It was good to be able to sit in the sun after siesta with our drinks and time to paint the view back to the bridge. This bridge is approx 800 mts long from water's edge to water's edge. The extra distance from the bridge end to the hotel means we walked 15kms today. Also we will have to add that 1.5kms onto tomorrow's walking as we need to return to the roundabout to pick up the Camino.

Views along the Camino

Snow on the mountains

First view of San Vicente and the long bridge

San Vicente from the bridge

View from our balcony

Cóbreces to Comillas : 4th May

11.5kms
We left Cóbreces and walked past the 'pilgrim' behind the church, then along a well marked track. Further along the road we had coffee at the Camping's cafe/bar 'El Helguero' before the Camino was signed back off the road and through Concha.

Arriving in Comillas in time for lunch at 'La Esmeralda' we also had our washing done and hung up discreetly on the balcony before siesta. Comillas is very interesting and we walked past the albergue (in the old prison). It looked very good, both inside and out, and the hospitalera stamped our credenciales. Then we walked on and through a park past the Capricho de Gaudí and Palacio de Sobrellano before returning to the town square and the church of San Cristóbal.

It was sunny all day and all our washing was dry. Bread, cheese and a tin of peaches for supper.

Terry and the Cóbreces 'pilgrim'

Snow on the mountains

The church and village of La Iglesia

The village street Concha

El Capricho de Gaudí.
This was the first building designed by Gaudi and is covered in yellow sunflowers.

Santillana to Cóbreces: 3rd May

13kms
It was dry but grey when we left Santillana. We saw a stork near Caborredondo and a heron too. Walking past the church there is a carving in the niche on the wall facing the recreation area. We stopped in the village at the new bar, Las Sopeñas, for a cafe con leche before walking on towards Cóbreces. In sight of the church and village the Camino took a sharp right turn, down a pretty but steep track, then sharp left and back uphill to the church. On reflection it would have been easier to stay on the road as it had a good footpath.

Having booked into Las Mañanitas we went for lunch down in the village. Another pilgrim couple were heading for the albergue. Supper was bread and jamon from the village shop which we ate on the balcony outside our room.

The church at Caborredondo and the carving in the niche

Approaching Cóbreces on the road and the track downhill

Santander to Santillana del Mar: 30th April - 2nd May

When we left Santander the weather was cool, but still dry. For the first stage of our journey we took the FEVE ('cercania') from Santander to Barreda. The rain started while we were on the train but so it was time for our ponchos to go on when we left the train. First stop was the bar just past the station, for a cafe con leche, then we set off to walk to Santillana. It rained all the way so we were glad of the ponchos and waterproof overtrousers. For the first time ever I had damp/wet feet, and so did Terry!! This year we have a different make of boots!

Arriving in Santillana we made our way uphill to the Hotel Colegiata where we were booked in for 3 nights (Brittany Ferries). A good room, paper to dry our boots, a meal and siesta. Following that we had time to sit in their lounge area and could see wet pilgrims coming down into Santillana on the road we had walked earlier. Supper was eaten at the Camping cafe nearby and some emergency rations bought from their little shop.

Next day (May Day) we walked around Santillana itself. Many years ago this was still a working village, with the cows kept in the undercrofts of the houses. Now it is more of a museum piece in itself with tourist shops, the 'working' village is across the main road. It is still interesting and we enjoyed wandering around. The restaurant El Porche had a good menu and didn't mind our wet ponchos hanging in their dining area.

Thursday was the day we had our tickets for the Altamira museum. One look at the rain and any idea of walking up to the museum was abandoned. The hotel reception called the taxi/bus which was also collecting passengers for the morning ALSA and then took us up to the museum. The museum itself is small but interesting as well as the 'neo-cueva'- the replica cave. This is good but lacks the atmosphere of the real cave which we saw nearly 20 years ago. Those who have not had that experience will be amazed at the neo-cueva.

After the visit to the museum we were able to walk back into Santillana as the rain had stopped. Lunch at the El Porche again and then back to the hotel to pack ready for walking on. Still drying my boots out! Terry's are OK.

View across Santillana from the hotel

Street in Santillana del Mar

Plymouth to Santander: 27th - 29th April

Arriving in Plymouth we headed for the Travelodge, put our packs in our room and went for fish and chips. there is a good fish and chip shop/cafe near the market. Almost opposite was an internet cafe, not that we needed it, but any other walkers/pilgrims using this route might find it useful.

We went for a walk on the Hoe and then turned left to walk along the footpath, past the Barbican, by the harbour side. Here we found our first pilgrim shell, a huge gold one, on the wall. Beneath it was a plaque explaining how pilgrims embarked from here on their way to Santiago. This is the third year we have stayed in Plymouth prior to travelling, but the first time we have walked this way from the Hoe and so the first time we have seen this particular shell sign.

Our ferry crossing was good, including seeing dolphin, and we found 3 other pilgrims on board, one going to Pamplona for the Camino Francés and two going to Oviedo for the Camino Primitivo. Arriving in Santander we set off together briefly before the others went to the bus station or overnight accomodation.

Our first call was the Bank of Santander to buy our tickets for the museum at Altamira, then lunch and then to our hotel. The afternoon was spent wandering around Santander and also buying our 'tarjeta azul' to give us our pensioners rate fare on the FEVE. We had to provide photocopies of our documents (passport photo page) to get them this year, but there was a kiosk open on the station which could do them. We were glad that we did them then and not just before the train went in the morning!!

Feeling hungry we found a little cafe-bar whose owner happily cooked us a meal well before normal Spanish eating hours. He doesn't mind what time he cooks which is very good.

Exeter to Covadonga - May 2013

Having previously walked part of the route from Exeter we left home on the 27th April to travel to Plymouth for the ferry, on the 28th April, to Santander. Our first night in Spain was spent in Santander itself, then we took the FEVE to Barreda to start walking, first to Santillana del Mar and then by stages to Llanes. From Llanes the original plan was to walk through the Picos de Europa to Covadonga but this would have been very unwise. Instead we took the FEVE again to Arriondas and walked to Covadonga from the west along the Camino de la Reina.

Home again we are now sorting out our notes and photos to post daily reports of the walk and places visited.

Watch this space

Exeter to Buckfast Abbey

We have finally walked part of the way from Exeter to Plymouth, walks originally planned for last autumn. Walking Haldon Hill was lovely on a spring day with the primroses coming out and there were primroses well out on the old A38 between Ashburton and Buckfast Abbey. The trees are still not very far out, but they are about the same as when Terry walked 4 years ago to the day. After the abbey we walked on and had lunch at the station cafe. Steam trains run on the preservation line from Buckfastleigh to Totnes and there was even a train in the station.

At the end of last week we made the decision to leave the sleeping bags at home as we are going later this year than previously and Terry was finding the pack a little too heavy for comfort. As a result we have also decided to use the equivalent of B&Bs all the time instead of having some nights in albergues. The longjohns and fleeces are staying in, 'just in case'. It can still be cold at night even in summer, especially in the mountains. So the packing list below is now minus sleeping bags, but everything else is going (at the moment)

The bridge over this stream on Haldon has an unusual parapet for Devon

The lane went up a shady track before returning to another Devon lane

The abbey from just inside the old gatehouse

Steam engine at the Heritage Railway Centre, Buckfastleigh

Spring is coming

The weather has finally warmed up and we walked with only one fleece, no gloves and our hats instead of 'beanies'. Our route was the same as in the previous post. It was much wetter this time after more rain recently. Very reminiscent of parts of the Camino in 2010. However we are more in practise and found the hills much easier again.

One advantage of mud is that it shows animal tracks clearly. Two deer had passed along the track not long before us. Thanks to the warmer weather the primroses are out and also wood anenomes. The wild garlic smells when trodden on but is not yet flowering.

Deer tracks in the mud

Primroses on the bank side

Off the roads at last

Today for the first time in months we have been able to walk on tracks instead of the roads. Down through the woods it was still rather muddy and we could see where the river has scoured the banks and field edges during the floods. High winds have also been a problem these last few weeks. The wet soil and winds have resulted in falling trees. We ducked under one wedged across the track, then came on this group. They were actually fairly easy to get under and over and the rest of the walk was quite good. If the sun would shine more and the weather warm up then the hedges would soon be green and more spring flowers would come out.

Practise and packing

The bad weather continued but on the occasional fine days we have managed a few walks. Mostly of about 7kms and nearly all still on the lanes. The fields were just drying up when the next band of bad weather arrived.

After a walk this morning, with a steep hill, we decided it was time to have a practise packing session for this year, using the lists below. The only substitute item was the older heavy sleeping bag instead of the two lighter ones, but it saved getting them out of their winter storage.

The only other point to note is that we have a reflective vest each, but mine was already in the pack and the Crocs (not shown) will go in Terry's pack. In addition we will each be wearing one set of clothing ie:- vest, shirt, underwear, trousers, socks and boots. The fleeces are in the pack.

The packing laid out

Packing rolled ready to pack

The packed bags

Plans and packing weights

We are making plans for walking in Spain again later this year, on the Camino del Norte. A shorter time than on the Camino Primitivo last year. We plan to walk from Santander as far as Llanes before turning inland to walk through the mountains on the trail to Covadonga. There is a GR route marked which can take up to 4 days at our speed, with some recommended places to break the walk.

As we will be staying in some pre-booked hotels, as part of our ferry package, our packing is a little different to other years. We have some lighter items (already) and will also carry a tidy shirt each and for Valerie a pair of very lightweight 'tidy' shoes. These roll up or fold flat and will look smarter than the Crocs which are for sightseeing. Our windproof fleeces are new (Rohan) and have already proved themselves this winter. They weigh the same or a little less than our previous outer fleeces and have the advantage of a lining which when they are reversed traps extra warmth in the fleecey side. They also pack down smaller.

Our packing weights, as usual, are for hot weather walking - i.e. we are carrying the fleeces etc in our packs. In our experience walking in the mountains it can be quite cool early and late in the day, even in summer. Actual final packing decisions will be made just before we go. At the moment we are glad of a good log fire and are glad not to be on the Camino where many places have minus temperatures and deep snow.

Valerie's packing 2013

Rucksack (Berghaus Freeflow Ladies 25+5) - 1.067kgs
Poncho - 0.340gms
Waterproof trousers - 0.200gms
Shirts 170g x2 - 340gms
Terry's shirt - 0.125gms
s/s T-shirt - 0.115gms
l/s T-shirt - 0.150gms
Walking trousers - 0.400gms
Underwear - 0.145gms
Liner socks x4 - 0.100gms
Walking socks 70g x1; 45g x2-0.160gms
Longjohns/pyjamas 70gx2 - 0.140gms
Black roll-up footwear, for evening - hotels - 0.050gms
Dress/nightdress - 0.180gms
Scarf - 0.045gms
Gloves - 0.010gms
Vest - 0.035gms
Purple fleece - 0.300gms
Red windproof fleece - 0.400gms
Towel - 0.120gms
Wash-bag/shampoo/soap/soap leaves/pegs/line - 0.300gms
Glasses case/torch/eye-mask/earplugs - 0.100gms
Daysac for sightseeing - 0.068gms
Safety vest/water bottles/sun cream etc - not weighed
Total weight without water - 5.150kgs
Wearing:-vest; walking shirt; briefs; walking trousers; full set of socks; hat; walking boots


Terry's packing 2013

Rucksack (Berghaus Freeflow 40+10) - 1.670kgs
Sleeping bags x2 - 1.700kgs
Poncho - 0.340gms
Waterproof trousers - 0.350gms
Walking shirt - 0.240gms
s/s T-shirt - 0.150gms
Walking trousers - 0.400gms
Underwear 75g x2 - 0.150gms
Liner socks x2 - 0.050gms
Socks 45g x2; 80g x1 - 0.170gms
Crocs 110g x2 - 0.220gms
Sporks/telcharger - 0.100gms
First Aid/medical - 0.300gms
Blue windproof fleece - 0.400gms
Grey fleece - 0.300gms
Longjohns - 0.120gms
Towels 280g x1 180g x1 - 0.460gms
Daysac - 0.068gms
Camera - 0.250gms
Phone/safety jacket/soap/torch/waterbottles - not weighed
Total weight without water - 8.000kgs
Wearing:- s/s T-shirt; walking shirt; pants; walking trousers; full set of socks; hat; walking boots

A variety of issues have kept us from walking lately. Now we need to get back into practise with near full weight and then full weight packs. We just need some better weather............

Snow

Rain, Christmas, New Year, more rain and ice have all kept us either at home or simply road walking for most of the last month. With a dry day recently we finally managed an uphill walk, although still on the roads, and the slippery patches were passable with care. There was a view across to the snow on the far hills, hazy but worth a photo. We look forward to more settled walking weather and an opportunity to walk further afield again. Meanwhile, having had snow at home, we are settled in front of a good log fire and waiting for the snow to go.

Post flood walk and road damage

It is now two weeks since the rain and flooding, followed by freezing mornings and ice. The weather has finally stayed dry for long enough to go for a reasonable walk today, 12kms up the hills but still having to keep to the roads. There is a great deal of mud and grit on the roads, both from slippage off the bank sides and run off from the fields and overflowing streams. In some places the sides of the road have been eroded and also the tarmac has been ripped up. One road in particular is badly torn and higher up has a 'Road Closed' sign.

The house drive had been washed away and the torn tarmac has been used to fill the hole so that they can get out onto the road. It will probably be weeks before all the damage is fixed.

Another road had debris deposited about 2ft above road level and the stream at the side has flung stones into the adjacent fields. The road itself must have been like a river.

The damaged road - with water still running in the hole from an underground stream.

After the flood

The wet and then ice have still restricted our walking but we have managed some short walks (5 - 7kms). The path near the stream has dried out and the water is back to winter levels.
A lot of gravel has been moved in the stream bed, some of it dropped on the bank tops. Away from the stream stones and gravel have washed out of fields and bank sides and have been deposited on the roads. Debris is hanging feet high on gates and in the bushes. In one place the tarmac has been torn up by the force of the water and in many places the edge of the road has been broken away. The roads too must have been like rivers.
However this morning it was more a case of being careful not to slip on the icy patches. We hope that the roads dry out soon to make it possible to walk up some of our local hills. That will happen when the last of the run off from the fields finally dries up and we have less frost. At least the sun was shining as we walked round the roads today.

Compare the levels in these 2 photos with the floods below. The stones and gravel dropped by the flood can be seen on the bank and in the stream in the left hand photo

Floods

Following the recent wet weather we have again been confined to the roads, and some of them were not passable. Our little stream was flooded as these photos show. Then we had torrential rain for hours last weekend. Our little brook became a raging torrent, we could hear it roaring in the night. Several homes near its banks were flooded when it rose 8ft!. The corner of the grass bank in the fourth picture has been partially torn away since we took the photos.

Finally we did manage a walk up the hill, with water still running down the road sides. Our thoughts are with those whose homes were flooded and with farmers who are struggling with the dreadful conditions.

The stream burst its banks and came up to the path with the first flood and over it at the second. It usually flows to the right of the tree in the left hand photo; and the right of the tree in the right hand one

Taken about 1 hour apart the level was dropping at the bridge

During the second flood 24 hours later the water was up over the sides of the bridge and onto the road

Not the FEVE!

Having had another spell of wet weather we have been walking the roads most of the time. However one trip out has been on the South Devon Railway, which runs between Buckfastleigh and Totnes. It is then possible to walk alongside the river into the town, muddy in places but a pleasant walk. Lunch in town and a walk back to the train for the return journey to Buckfastleigh made an enjoyable day, and we got back on the train just before the next downpour.

So:- a few train photos and just one of the actual walk this time.