Plymouth to Santander: 27th - 29th April

Arriving in Plymouth we headed for the Travelodge, put our packs in our room and went for fish and chips. there is a good fish and chip shop/cafe near the market. Almost opposite was an internet cafe, not that we needed it, but any other walkers/pilgrims using this route might find it useful.

We went for a walk on the Hoe and then turned left to walk along the footpath, past the Barbican, by the harbour side. Here we found our first pilgrim shell, a huge gold one, on the wall. Beneath it was a plaque explaining how pilgrims embarked from here on their way to Santiago. This is the third year we have stayed in Plymouth prior to travelling, but the first time we have walked this way from the Hoe and so the first time we have seen this particular shell sign.

Our ferry crossing was good, including seeing dolphin, and we found 3 other pilgrims on board, one going to Pamplona for the Camino Francés and two going to Oviedo for the Camino Primitivo. Arriving in Santander we set off together briefly before the others went to the bus station or overnight accomodation.

Our first call was the Bank of Santander to buy our tickets for the museum at Altamira, then lunch and then to our hotel. The afternoon was spent wandering around Santander and also buying our 'tarjeta azul' to give us our pensioners rate fare on the FEVE. We had to provide photocopies of our documents (passport photo page) to get them this year, but there was a kiosk open on the station which could do them. We were glad that we did them then and not just before the train went in the morning!!

Feeling hungry we found a little cafe-bar whose owner happily cooked us a meal well before normal Spanish eating hours. He doesn't mind what time he cooks which is very good.

Exeter to Covadonga - May 2013

Having previously walked part of the route from Exeter we left home on the 27th April to travel to Plymouth for the ferry, on the 28th April, to Santander. Our first night in Spain was spent in Santander itself, then we took the FEVE to Barreda to start walking, first to Santillana del Mar and then by stages to Llanes. From Llanes the original plan was to walk through the Picos de Europa to Covadonga but this would have been very unwise. Instead we took the FEVE again to Arriondas and walked to Covadonga from the west along the Camino de la Reina.

Home again we are now sorting out our notes and photos to post daily reports of the walk and places visited.

Watch this space

Exeter to Buckfast Abbey

We have finally walked part of the way from Exeter to Plymouth, walks originally planned for last autumn. Walking Haldon Hill was lovely on a spring day with the primroses coming out and there were primroses well out on the old A38 between Ashburton and Buckfast Abbey. The trees are still not very far out, but they are about the same as when Terry walked 4 years ago to the day. After the abbey we walked on and had lunch at the station cafe. Steam trains run on the preservation line from Buckfastleigh to Totnes and there was even a train in the station.

At the end of last week we made the decision to leave the sleeping bags at home as we are going later this year than previously and Terry was finding the pack a little too heavy for comfort. As a result we have also decided to use the equivalent of B&Bs all the time instead of having some nights in albergues. The longjohns and fleeces are staying in, 'just in case'. It can still be cold at night even in summer, especially in the mountains. So the packing list below is now minus sleeping bags, but everything else is going (at the moment)

The bridge over this stream on Haldon has an unusual parapet for Devon

The lane went up a shady track before returning to another Devon lane

The abbey from just inside the old gatehouse

Steam engine at the Heritage Railway Centre, Buckfastleigh

Spring is coming

The weather has finally warmed up and we walked with only one fleece, no gloves and our hats instead of 'beanies'. Our route was the same as in the previous post. It was much wetter this time after more rain recently. Very reminiscent of parts of the Camino in 2010. However we are more in practise and found the hills much easier again.

One advantage of mud is that it shows animal tracks clearly. Two deer had passed along the track not long before us. Thanks to the warmer weather the primroses are out and also wood anenomes. The wild garlic smells when trodden on but is not yet flowering.

Deer tracks in the mud

Primroses on the bank side

Off the roads at last

Today for the first time in months we have been able to walk on tracks instead of the roads. Down through the woods it was still rather muddy and we could see where the river has scoured the banks and field edges during the floods. High winds have also been a problem these last few weeks. The wet soil and winds have resulted in falling trees. We ducked under one wedged across the track, then came on this group. They were actually fairly easy to get under and over and the rest of the walk was quite good. If the sun would shine more and the weather warm up then the hedges would soon be green and more spring flowers would come out.

Practise and packing

The bad weather continued but on the occasional fine days we have managed a few walks. Mostly of about 7kms and nearly all still on the lanes. The fields were just drying up when the next band of bad weather arrived.

After a walk this morning, with a steep hill, we decided it was time to have a practise packing session for this year, using the lists below. The only substitute item was the older heavy sleeping bag instead of the two lighter ones, but it saved getting them out of their winter storage.

The only other point to note is that we have a reflective vest each, but mine was already in the pack and the Crocs (not shown) will go in Terry's pack. In addition we will each be wearing one set of clothing ie:- vest, shirt, underwear, trousers, socks and boots. The fleeces are in the pack.

The packing laid out

Packing rolled ready to pack

The packed bags

Plans and packing weights

We are making plans for walking in Spain again later this year, on the Camino del Norte. A shorter time than on the Camino Primitivo last year. We plan to walk from Santander as far as Llanes before turning inland to walk through the mountains on the trail to Covadonga. There is a GR route marked which can take up to 4 days at our speed, with some recommended places to break the walk.

As we will be staying in some pre-booked hotels, as part of our ferry package, our packing is a little different to other years. We have some lighter items (already) and will also carry a tidy shirt each and for Valerie a pair of very lightweight 'tidy' shoes. These roll up or fold flat and will look smarter than the Crocs which are for sightseeing. Our windproof fleeces are new (Rohan) and have already proved themselves this winter. They weigh the same or a little less than our previous outer fleeces and have the advantage of a lining which when they are reversed traps extra warmth in the fleecey side. They also pack down smaller.

Our packing weights, as usual, are for hot weather walking - i.e. we are carrying the fleeces etc in our packs. In our experience walking in the mountains it can be quite cool early and late in the day, even in summer. Actual final packing decisions will be made just before we go. At the moment we are glad of a good log fire and are glad not to be on the Camino where many places have minus temperatures and deep snow.

Valerie's packing 2013

Rucksack (Berghaus Freeflow Ladies 25+5) - 1.067kgs
Poncho - 0.340gms
Waterproof trousers - 0.200gms
Shirts 170g x2 - 340gms
Terry's shirt - 0.125gms
s/s T-shirt - 0.115gms
l/s T-shirt - 0.150gms
Walking trousers - 0.400gms
Underwear - 0.145gms
Liner socks x4 - 0.100gms
Walking socks 70g x1; 45g x2-0.160gms
Longjohns/pyjamas 70gx2 - 0.140gms
Black roll-up footwear, for evening - hotels - 0.050gms
Dress/nightdress - 0.180gms
Scarf - 0.045gms
Gloves - 0.010gms
Vest - 0.035gms
Purple fleece - 0.300gms
Red windproof fleece - 0.400gms
Towel - 0.120gms
Wash-bag/shampoo/soap/soap leaves/pegs/line - 0.300gms
Glasses case/torch/eye-mask/earplugs - 0.100gms
Daysac for sightseeing - 0.068gms
Safety vest/water bottles/sun cream etc - not weighed
Total weight without water - 5.150kgs
Wearing:-vest; walking shirt; briefs; walking trousers; full set of socks; hat; walking boots


Terry's packing 2013

Rucksack (Berghaus Freeflow 40+10) - 1.670kgs
Sleeping bags x2 - 1.700kgs
Poncho - 0.340gms
Waterproof trousers - 0.350gms
Walking shirt - 0.240gms
s/s T-shirt - 0.150gms
Walking trousers - 0.400gms
Underwear 75g x2 - 0.150gms
Liner socks x2 - 0.050gms
Socks 45g x2; 80g x1 - 0.170gms
Crocs 110g x2 - 0.220gms
Sporks/telcharger - 0.100gms
First Aid/medical - 0.300gms
Blue windproof fleece - 0.400gms
Grey fleece - 0.300gms
Longjohns - 0.120gms
Towels 280g x1 180g x1 - 0.460gms
Daysac - 0.068gms
Camera - 0.250gms
Phone/safety jacket/soap/torch/waterbottles - not weighed
Total weight without water - 8.000kgs
Wearing:- s/s T-shirt; walking shirt; pants; walking trousers; full set of socks; hat; walking boots

A variety of issues have kept us from walking lately. Now we need to get back into practise with near full weight and then full weight packs. We just need some better weather............

Snow

Rain, Christmas, New Year, more rain and ice have all kept us either at home or simply road walking for most of the last month. With a dry day recently we finally managed an uphill walk, although still on the roads, and the slippery patches were passable with care. There was a view across to the snow on the far hills, hazy but worth a photo. We look forward to more settled walking weather and an opportunity to walk further afield again. Meanwhile, having had snow at home, we are settled in front of a good log fire and waiting for the snow to go.

Post flood walk and road damage

It is now two weeks since the rain and flooding, followed by freezing mornings and ice. The weather has finally stayed dry for long enough to go for a reasonable walk today, 12kms up the hills but still having to keep to the roads. There is a great deal of mud and grit on the roads, both from slippage off the bank sides and run off from the fields and overflowing streams. In some places the sides of the road have been eroded and also the tarmac has been ripped up. One road in particular is badly torn and higher up has a 'Road Closed' sign.

The house drive had been washed away and the torn tarmac has been used to fill the hole so that they can get out onto the road. It will probably be weeks before all the damage is fixed.

Another road had debris deposited about 2ft above road level and the stream at the side has flung stones into the adjacent fields. The road itself must have been like a river.

The damaged road - with water still running in the hole from an underground stream.

After the flood

The wet and then ice have still restricted our walking but we have managed some short walks (5 - 7kms). The path near the stream has dried out and the water is back to winter levels.
A lot of gravel has been moved in the stream bed, some of it dropped on the bank tops. Away from the stream stones and gravel have washed out of fields and bank sides and have been deposited on the roads. Debris is hanging feet high on gates and in the bushes. In one place the tarmac has been torn up by the force of the water and in many places the edge of the road has been broken away. The roads too must have been like rivers.
However this morning it was more a case of being careful not to slip on the icy patches. We hope that the roads dry out soon to make it possible to walk up some of our local hills. That will happen when the last of the run off from the fields finally dries up and we have less frost. At least the sun was shining as we walked round the roads today.

Compare the levels in these 2 photos with the floods below. The stones and gravel dropped by the flood can be seen on the bank and in the stream in the left hand photo

Floods

Following the recent wet weather we have again been confined to the roads, and some of them were not passable. Our little stream was flooded as these photos show. Then we had torrential rain for hours last weekend. Our little brook became a raging torrent, we could hear it roaring in the night. Several homes near its banks were flooded when it rose 8ft!. The corner of the grass bank in the fourth picture has been partially torn away since we took the photos.

Finally we did manage a walk up the hill, with water still running down the road sides. Our thoughts are with those whose homes were flooded and with farmers who are struggling with the dreadful conditions.

The stream burst its banks and came up to the path with the first flood and over it at the second. It usually flows to the right of the tree in the left hand photo; and the right of the tree in the right hand one

Taken about 1 hour apart the level was dropping at the bridge

During the second flood 24 hours later the water was up over the sides of the bridge and onto the road

Not the FEVE!

Having had another spell of wet weather we have been walking the roads most of the time. However one trip out has been on the South Devon Railway, which runs between Buckfastleigh and Totnes. It is then possible to walk alongside the river into the town, muddy in places but a pleasant walk. Lunch in town and a walk back to the train for the return journey to Buckfastleigh made an enjoyable day, and we got back on the train just before the next downpour.

So:- a few train photos and just one of the actual walk this time.

Webs, mist and a hornet

The first really good day in some time so we walked about 9km, but on the road. The fields are still too wet in many places and there are still wet patches on the roads too.

The spiders webs on a bridge were beautiful, with the dew sparkling in the sunshine. The mist lying in the valley reminded us of the view beyond Tineo. This time however there was a hot-air balloon and our own hills in the distance.

Further on we found a hornet on a bramble bush. It finally settled for long enough to have its photo taken

Walking on the Hills

The weather has not being kind to us. We have had some very wet days and the tracks are all awash so we took the car up to the forestry walks. The water was running down the road here as well, like a river, this morning. However we did manage 7kms across a forestry path and then on the road, with a coffee break at the halfway point. (This was before retracing our steps to the car) There was still water running down the hill all the way back down to the town and we were glad the route we had chosen was reasonably dry. The other road routes may have been as wet as the one in the photos and the roads and tracks have been eroded by the water in some places.

The water ran across the road and on downhill, cutting away the soil at the edge

The gate was steaming in the sun and there are two spiders' webs hanging on it

View from the track to the moor

Walking near Castleton

A few days later we walked towards Castleton along the road, then turned onto the footpath towards Black Tor. This is a very steep climb in places and comes out on the top of the ridge near the Tor itself. We then turned towards Mam Tor following the yellow arrows along the upper path initially.

Having already walked up Mam Tor from the other direction we chose to take the path back down past the farm, to the bottom of the old slippage which finally closed the road in 1979, and into Castleton again.

Much of the route was very like the Camino, including yellow arrows on the marker posts. Unlike the Camino there were as many folk walking towards us as in our direction while we were on the ridge path.

Mam Tor from Castleton

We walked up the hill towards the tor and along the ridge to the gap before turning onto the track running diagonally downhill

Black Tor

Yellow arrows show the way to Mam Tor and back down the way we had come from Castleton

The track along the top of the ridge, we turned down to Casteton at the crossing in the dip

Mam Tor

While staying in Castleton, Derbyshire, we walked up Mam Tor from the National Trust car park. The route is short but steep with some paved places and steps. Along the path are plaques showing various Celtic items, which our grandchildren enjoyed finding. There are good views from the top and paths that lead in several directions.

A cooking cauldron and a Celtic dagger

A thatched Celtic round-house

A simple plough

Jewellery, a torc (neck ring)

The view towards Losehill from the top of Mam Tor

'Peripatio'

Some one asked what 'peripatio' means. It is Greek (Περιπατεω) for 'walking around'; and also a metaphor for 'passing one's life', 'living'. Ephesians Ch 4 v1 "...walk worthy of the calling you have received..." uses Περιπατεω.

August Walks

There is more water running down the roads now than there was in the winter. We have been able to get 'off road' occasionally but mostly have had to avoid the field footpaths. However we continue to walk two or three times a week as we are making plans to walk part of the Camino del Norte, and then to Covadonga, next year.



The slug was crossing the road and the Jersey Tiger Moth was sitting on a hazel bush.

It rained!

Enough said. Maybe tomorrow will be better!

Walking in Devon

After our time in Brecon we have had several weeks without walking due to various circumstances. However we were able to walk near Stover in Devon last week, about 8kms through woods and then road and field tracks near the River Teign. They serve good coffee at Sampsons Farm, Preston, where we stopped for a short break. They also serve meals but it was too early as we were there mid-morning. The weather was fine and became quite hot, with the temperature up over 30C by mid-day. One view was of the cows going into the farm to be milked, fortunately just beyond the entrance to the farmhouse and garden as there were so many of them.

For those who have followed our times on the Camino the ruts near a field gate brought back memories of 2010.

We followed this with a more road based walk on the Haldon Hills, also on a warm day. Then we needed to spend some time at home, doing some housework!! More walking hopefully, if it doesn't rain again, later in the week.