Arriondas:- 20th May

A dry day! After breakfast we packed the final items and left the hotel to catch the 10.15 ALSA bus to Arriondas. Arriving there at 10.25 we went across the road to check the FEVE time for the next day, then to the hotel, La Estrada again. Here we were able to leave our bags securely, until our room was ready, while we went into town. We walked past a restored and well kept 'casa indiana', the one opposite the hotel is in a sad state. Then we walked along the river and saw both a very hairy caterpillar and several lizards. One was quite big but ran into the bushes before we could take a photo.

We went to El Submarino again for their soup and 'arroz con pollo', after which they brought us fish and chips!! apparently part of todays menu del dia. We were too full to even try to eat them so they very kindly changed them for coffees. We expected to pay for the menu plus coffees but they didn't charge us the extra, taking the coffees as exchange for the fish, which was very kind.

After siesta we went to the riverside park again and sat near the hórreo in the sunshine. The temperature was up to 19C today. Afternoon drinks, then supper and a final re-packing to get everything ready for the FEVE journey from Arriondas to Santander and the ferry home. We had a few presents and had also finally succumbed and bought a small cowbell in Arriondas - a genuine one - in an ironmongers so used our daysacs to carry these extras and our food for the train.

Arriondas:- the view down the river and across to the mountains from the park

Casa Indianos:- a style of architecture for early 20th century houses built by families returning from the Americas

An eggar moth caterpillar

Two small lizards

The park in Arriondas:-

The preserved hórreo
(grain store)

Every picnic table has its own permanent barbecue

Cangas de Onis:- 16th-19th May

We returned to the Aguila Réal from Casa Asprón and were shown to a lovely spacious corner room. Looking in one direction a funfair was being erected, it turned out to be bumper cars, and we could see across to the bus station in the other. The hotel filled up on the Friday with a large group of young folk, who were amazingly quiet. Most of them went off to the bumper cars in the evening. We thought about it too, but decided against it.

The weather was very wet at times every day, and the temperature dropped too. At one point it was given as 11C in Cangas and only 6C for Covadonga. The newspaper had reports of severe hailstorms and snow again in places. We expect that it was sleeting or snowing in Covadonga too.

Much of our time was spent either in cafés or looking in the tourist shops as well as spending some time on the internet at the post office (free). Most of the museums were still closed. We walked to the Puente Romana and along the river as well when it was fine. However we needed our 'winter' layers of clothes to keep warm, and the heating was back on in the hotel. We wondered how folk were doing on the various Caminos with the cold and the rain/sleet/snow.

On Sunday it was still showery when we walked round the weekly market before going to church. The service was at mid-day and was for Pentecost as well as being First Communion. After the service, which was not much longer than last week, we walked round the street market stalls again to buy some fruit before going for lunch. In the covered market they were selling fabada (Asturian white beans), sausages and chorizos as well as regional cheeses. In the square behind the covered market were the fruit and vegetable stalls, with clothes etc being round the church. After lunch it was time to think about packing, checking the time of the ALSA bus to Arriondas, a final walk and supper.

The two fisherman had been scooping up crayfish

The park by the river, behind the Information Centre

The restaurant 'Meson El Puente Romana' and its garden which was crowded when we ate there last week, muddy and deserted today

The new bridge from the Puente Romana

The clothes section of the market

A stall in the covered market

A preserved cider barrel with hórreo to the left

The Hotel Aguila Réal across the river. This is walled through the city as a flood defence and also has a walkway.

Soto de Cangas to Covadonga:- 14th May and 'Covadonga 14th-15th May'

14th May - morning: 7.0kms
After a good breakfast we set off at 10.30 for the last few kilometres to Covadonga. The weather was cooler but it was still fine, although some of the mountain tops were in the clouds. Mostly the walking was along the road, with a good footpath at the side, but the was one very pretty village (la Riera) which the camino went through on a back road.

After La Riera we were back along the main road again to the Restaurante El Repelao. It was too early for lunch and the first hotel didn't look very inviting. The next one was on our list but we had others too, not having booked ahead this time. There were glimpses of the Basilica way up above us but we didn't want to climb so far, hoping to find a hotel and go up to the basilica later. The path was signed through the Parque de Los Principes (Park of the Princes), nicely paved and away from the road. It led down to stepping stones and then up steep steps which climbed up..and up....and up. It passed the backs of a couple of hotels/hostales but without easy access and finally came out...at the grotto. Between the steps and the rising humidity we were exhausted.

Having taken photos of the grotto we went across the steps to the parador to see if they had rooms. The receptionists said that they were closed for the day, so was its restaurant and cafe, but there might be a vacancy for tomorrow!! Going back down the hill, on the road this time, we passed a cafe/bar which would be serving lunch later but their rooms were not open yet. Feeling that the only option was further down we set off again as the rain started. Putting our ponchos on we then passed the Casa Asprón where there was a lady at an upstairs window, so we called out to see if there were any rooms. She came down to let us in and took us up to a lovely room which we decided to take for 2 nights. Then we went for our lunch, at the bottom of the hill.

The main road towards La Riera and the side road leading into the village

La Riera and the bridge over the River Covadonga

The path in the 'Princes'Park' and the steps up the hill

Covadonga:- 14th and 15th May

14th May - afternoon
After siesta we went back up the road to the grotto where we joined in the service, then went across to the basilica only to find that the evening service was back at the grotto and the next service here was next day. Looking round for a drink we realised that nothing was open and the only drinks available were cans from machines. It doesn't seem very pilgrim or tourist friendly. However we found the time for the museum and planned to return to see the museum before the service. Going back down the road we bought some coca cola from a machine and went to our room to eat our supper using our emergency rations (saved from our generous lunch) for tea. The rain was fairly heavy so we didn't venture out again.

15th May
Returning, by road, to the grotto we found that the trickle of water was now a roaring waterfall. The steps up to the chapel are called the Steps of Penitence, then through the tunnel carved in the rock to the square and the museum. Here we finally obtained a sello for Covadonga itself, and later found it is the official one for the end of the pilgrimage. The museum is very interesting and we came out with just enough time for a drink in the cafe (now open) of the Parador. Then it was time to go the the mid-day service in the Basilica, except that there was no sign of anything happening. Then at about 11.59 a few more people came and 3 nuns from the convent, which stll cares for the grotto. It was a very quiet reflective service after which we had a little more time to take photos before going back to the grotto to see Pelayo's grave which we missed earlier (no photos allowed).

Back down at El Repelao for lunch and later for drinks we learnt that the Hotel Repelao was on the site of the old pilgrims' hospital and itself had been part of the railway buildings. The Tourist Information opposite (closed) had been the station itself, at the end of the line. We took our hosts advice and bought a chicken bocadillo for our supper. Fortunately we did only buy one as it was huge; fresh cooked breaded chicken with salad in a half a loaf of bread and foil wrapped to keep it hot. We took it back to Casa Asprón to eat before packing up ready to return, by bus tomorrow, to Cangas de Onis and the Aguila Réal.

The Basilica of Santa Maria la Real
de Covadonga

The grotto and chapel

The waterfall - 14th May

and

after the rain - 15th May

The basilica from the bottom of the hill

The convent and grotto from the top of the hill near the basilica

Cangas de Onis to Soto de Cangas:- 13th May

6kms

Setting off after breakfast we followed the camino sign past the Guardia Civil building and stopped to ask for a sello. They seemed a little surprised, but interested. Once they realised the reason they were only to happy to open the gate and take our credenciales into the office to stamp. They agreed that our decision to walk the camino de la Reina (GR108/9) was good as the route from Llanes could have been difficult due to the weather and the Ruta de la Reconquista, from either end is for groups and experienced mountain hikers. The walking today was mostly along the river and was lovely.

In Celorio de Onis an elderly gentleman was sitting in the shade of his hórreo and we stopped to talk. He was very interesting and also interested in our pilgrimage, then signed our credenciales. As we made to walk on he pointed us the way over a new wooden bridge which saved walking up to the road ahead to cross the river. His route took us right through the village of Soto de Cangas, rather than just outside on the main road. The village road led over the river to the road and eventually to our hotel (El Molino de Partidor) where we arrived very early.

Leaving our rucksacs in a cupboard while our room was being finished we set off to walk up the road to the restaurant recommended at the hotel. There were a number of places to eat along the road but El Bosque did offer the best options and also has an amazing indoor barbecue. Further along the road was a craft centre and we bought a wooden spatula as a useful momento. It had the advantage of weighing little too.

Washing siesta and an afternoon walk around the village was followed by locally bought bread and sardines for tea, which we ate sat sat on a bench by the river behind the hotel.

Usually pilgrims' shadows are in front of them as they head west to Santiago. This one is heading east to Covadonga.

The Camino de Covadonga and Picos de Europa near Celorio de Onis

Soto de Cangas:-

Camino sign and track

The River Covadonga

Soto de Cangas and the River Covadonga from the main road

The indoor barbecue at the Restaurante El Bosque

Cangas de Onis:- 11th -12th May

As it was the week-end we decided to have two nights in Cangas de Onis so that we could go to church on the Sunday. This gave us time for some sightseeing as well. The Puente Romana is a cobbled medieval bridge, built on Roman foundations, with a replica of the Cruz de la Victoria hung underneath its arch. (This was the cross carried by Pelayo to the battle fought near Covadonga, later covered in gold and now kept in Oviedo.)

There are a number of interesting old buildings and palacios, which need more time to see. One museum had a model of the Picos de Europa outside which we photograped as part of it showed the way from Cangas de Onis to Covadonga.

Sunday was market day with stalls in the covered market and the square around the church. We walked around the market and went for a drink before returning to the parish church of 'Santa María' for the service, at mid-day. The church is only open for services so we also took the opportunity to look around. The notice sheet gave the service next week (Pentecost) as (First Communion) and, as Cangas is an interesting place, we are thinking of returning to stay over next week-end too.

After the service we returned to the Puente Romana to have lunch at the restaurant 'Puente Romana' where we sat in the garden by the river. One of the fishermen caught a good sized salmon which he was showing to his friends. Walking back to the hotel we passed through the now empty market place and then walked along the river again. Some-one was not going to be pleased to find that his horses had escaped and were walking happily down stream.

The Puente Romana and the Cruz de la Victoria

The Picos de Europa and the section showing Cangas de Onis (bottom right) and Covadonga (top left)

The church of Santa Maria

The market square

Horses in the river

Arriondas to Cangas de Onis:- 11th May (1)

11.4kms

We set off uphill from Arriondas, on the GR-108, after crossing the bridge over the Río Sella. There were mountains all around and in the distance there was still snow on the highest peaks. The road was hilly passing Romillin and then San José. Here at the chapel the camino turned sharp left, then right to take a track that led behind gardens and then down through the woods. There were other hills to ascend and descend with amazing views of the Picos de Europa. On a mix of minor roads and tracks the camino eventually descended towards the river again.

View back to Arriondas

View from the road near Romillin

The Capilla de San José

The track beyond San José

Views of the Picos de Europa from the camino

Arriondas to Cangas de Onis:- 11th May (2)

Coming downhill to Villanueva we passed the Parador and old monastery buildings, then crossed the Sella by the old bridge to enter the village. A very welcome, and welcoming cafe was at the end of the bridge, with most of the men watching the fishermen nearby.

After a stop here we followed the distinctive Camino de Covadonga sign out of the village and along the river bank. A well made path (GR-109) known as the Camino de la Reina because Isabella ll followed this route in the 1800s. There was one place where water from the hillside was flowing across the path and made it slippery, but we passed with care.

The camino passes into Cangas de Onis along the river, but there are also signs into town up steps at a bridge. We chose this route as we did not know exactly where our hotel was. The road led us past the ancient Capilla de Santa Cruz, which we wanted to see but expected to be closed. To our delight it was open (€2 euros each) with a film show explaining its history and also of the dolmen over which it is built. The dolmen can be seen as the floor has been cut away. Pelayo's 'Cross of Victory' was kept here for some time as Cangas de Onis was capital of Asturias when Pelayo was king. A replica of the cross hangs on the Puente Romana - the Roman bridge in the middle Cangas.

The information office further into Cangas gave us maps of the city, a designation given and retained as the old capital. There is a lovely park area behind the information centre, by the river, but we didn't stop for long as we needed lunch and to walk a little further along the river to our hotel, the Aguila Réal.

Villanueva:-

Looking down to the old monastery and the Parador

The bridge over the Sella, with the cafe at the far end

The path follows the river between Villanueva and Cangas de Onis

Cangas de Onis:-

The capilla de Santa Cruz

The river-side park,